Monday, May 12, 2008

La Luna: la popular, la busy, la fine

On Saturday night we had dinner at Cafe/Caffe Luna in downtown Raleigh. It was a beautiful night: not too hot, slightly breezy, with gemuchlicheit in the air.

Unfortunately, I was kind of expecting more of Luna. The appetizers were passed, family-style, and looked kind of wimpy -- and kind of alienated some of the visitors at our table, I suspected. The melon and prosciutto was small, the tomato and fresh mozzarella slightly watery and, too, small. *sigh* At least there was bread.

The entrees were more pleasing. I had the seafood-stuffed tortelli. It arrived not quite piping hot, but the flavor of the filling and the sauce provided ample distraction. The sea bass-eaters at the table were quite pleased. The steak eaters, I dunno. It was a more subdued dinner than I expected.

Dessert was actually quite divine, but by then I was either especially stuffed or especially constricted by my lady undergarment. I took about five bites of my rustic apple tart and gave up -- but not without a bite of my companion's chocolate mousse pyramid. I have my suspicions about the homemade-ness of these selections -- Gordon Ramsay is both the devil on one shoulder and the angel on the other, I'm afraid -- but in pure tartness, sweetness, and attractive presentation, the desserts scored well.

Thankfully, the service was good, if businesslike. Our server kept our glasses full, especially my glass of prosecco, though was unable to produce butter for a particular Wisconsin gentleman who didn't prefer olive oil. Until Saturday, I had only experienced Luna during busy weekday lunches. It is a common networking ground/schmoozing locale for the business elite and politicians. I guess I had believed it settled down on weekends, and I was wrong. Families, parties large and small filled the dining rooms. We had a private room at the back, overlooking the Moore Square fountains (and bus station), and the light and ambience were really lovely -- and we could actually carry on conversations, which counts for a lot.

I expect to return under different circumstances: fewer guests, less pressure, more relaxation -- and perhaps a spicier entree and a few more drinks. It's good to have an old-school-type Tuscan restaurant around. Not all the hype is warranted, but the cumulative effect is pleasing enough.

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